Heibeck’s in Georgetown

Some of the best summer-season food is found at roadside stands. Burgers, dogs, shakes, fried seafood, and ice cream all have a special cachet when ordered at the window.  These eateries, which have stood the test of time for multiple generations, are an essential part of my summer. 

With a painted menu board overhead and a small window for ordering and pickup, the stands are instantly recognizable along the road. At the window,  students with summer or after-school jobs usually take the order. They bend down, crouching over their order pad, to look out the low window. I lean back to look up at the menu then down to order.  

On the nicest day of last week, Marsha and I headed up to Heibeck’s Stand in Georgetown for an early start to our summer road food. The Heibeck family has been serving at 951 Danbury Road in Wilton since 1931. At the start, they catered to the workers at the Gilbert and Bennet wire works. Now the stand is a regional destination for the best food of its type.

On their website, owners Skylar Smith & Barbara Heibeck claim awards for best burger and hot dog in the state and best lobster roll in Fairfield County — deservedly so from what I can see. It’s a good place to start a tour of local food stands. 

Northbound on Rt-7, the stand is just past Caraluzzi’s on the left. It has the classic flat roof that shades the menu and service windows. Across the parking lot there are picnic tables with umbrellas and table seating under an ancient maple tree. 

Our gang of four ordered across the menu.  My combo ($15.17) included the Heibeck Original burger with American cheese and their proprietary sauce, fries, and a  milkshake — chocolate of course. The  burger lived up to its promise: hot and juicy with plenty of lettuce and tomato; dressed with their robust sauce; all on a “baked-local, fresh-daily” bun.  The well-salted fries were hot and crispy with a creamy interior — the best I’ve had in a long time. 

In Marsha’s Baja Tacos ($11.19) a zingy lime-cilantro slaw and a drizzle of avocado salsa supported crisp fried cod.  The three tacos disappeared in a trice. 

The Heibeck hot dog (4.29), a flavorful grilled kosher and gluten free example, was topped with relish from scratch, kraut, and spicy brown mustard. 

A loaded grilled cheese (7.69) included bacon, tomato, avocado and cheese griddled to perfection. An order of excellent onion rings (4.39) was shared. 

Heibeck’s classic food-stand menu goes upscale with a warm buttery Connecticut-style lobster roll (mkt), and shrimp (13.29) or clam (13.99) po-boys.  Specials on our visit included brussels sprouts with truffle parmesan or a  beef banh mi sandwich with grilled Angus steak and house-pickled vegetables.  At Heibeck’s you’ll eat well then want to come back for something new. 

On the way home, we passed the Dog Daze Cafe, featuring (you guessed it) hot dogs.  Nathan’s Famous come in ten styles along with burgers, sandwiches, and sausages.  There are a few umbrella-shaded tables in an attractive garden setting.  I’ll have to give it a try.  

Food stands near the shore are known for fried seafood. A perfect example is Overton’s in Norwalk.  Shrimp, clams (strips or bellies) and scallops are reasonably priced. Fried to order they come as sandwiches, dinners, or by the container. There are, of course, burgers, dogs, and chicken, but it’s the seafood and waterside location that are the draw. Out back, there are picnic tables on a deck overlooking Norwalk harbor. 

Just around the corner is Mr. Frosty’s Ice Cream, another Norwalk institution. There’s no hot food, but ice cream in almost infinite variations. With the typical roadside stand look and ordering windows, it fits under my broad definition even though you can’t get a burger. 

I’m putting Ripka’s at the Calf Pasture Beach on my list of stands, even though it’s not by the road and you order inside. Still, orders are taken at the counter and the extensive menu has the classics along with lots of upscale choices. The food is good and you can’t beat the view of the Norwalk Islands, Long Island Sound, and even across to Long Island on a clear day. It’s a regular summer stop for us. 

Roadside stands are an anachronism.  With the cost of land along busy roads or by the water, and with the seasonal nature of the business, they’re not building any more, at least not around here.  I feel an obligation to support the ones we’ve got — the food is delicious and the experience unique. 

If you know anyone who would enjoy food tips like these, please pass this on and encourage them to sigh up at FranksFeast.com.

Frank Whitman can be reached at NotBreadAloneFW@gmail.com.