At the end of this season’s hustle and bustle, after the excitement of Santa and presents under the tree, families and friends gather for Christmas dinner. It’s both the time for tried and true recipes that have been served year after year and an opportunity to bring something new to the table. Special occasion foods, seldom seen the rest of the year, make an appearance. Prized bottles saved for the celebration are uncorked and shared.

At our house, Christmas dinner looks a lot like Thanksgiving. A golden brown turkey is the centerpiece. You can‘t have that without stuffing, pan gravy, cranberry sauce, and mashed potatoes. The extended family gathers – whoever is in town – everyone bringing a side dish, dessert, or a centerpiece.

A majestic roast is another popular option. Prime Rib is the choice for Marsha’s sister in California. A whole beef tenderloin is quick cooking, luxurious, and festive. Done pink in the middle with a crunchy, salty, caramelized crust, either cut fills the house with a rich, roasting aroma. If you’re opting for the roast, yorkshire pudding is a showy, delicious, and easy side dish.

Baked ham burnished with a sweet glaze is the favorite at some tables. The best hams come from Nodine’s Smokehouse in Goshen, CT. Roast Christmas Goose was the preferred dinner in Victorian England, but these days, goose is hard to find.

Crown roast of lamb from South Ave. Butcher

A crown roast, either pork or lamb, is an even more exotic presentation. Rib racks (same as prime rib) are shaped into a ring with their frenched bones pointing up and curving out to form the points of the crown. The center can be stuffed with a savory or fruity stuffing. Harbor Harvest at 7 Cove Ave in Norwalk or South Avenue Butcher at 17 South Ave. in New Canaan are both staffed with professional, old-world butchers who can prepare the crowns for you.

Ready for carving

For some families, seafood is at the heart of their Christmas feast. Lobster, crab, and local oysters, along with Salmon, Scallops and Sole are in demand for the holiday table. We usually try to work in our favorite scallop soup and an old fashioned oyster stew (local oysters of course) sometime over the holidays.

Side dishes at our house include creamed onions, beloved by some and avoided by others, vegetable casseroles – usually green bean or broccoli – and yes, those sweet potatoes with the marshmallows on top, nostalgic for the grownups and a big hit with the kids. Some soft yeasty rolls always appear. This year I’m trying a new recipe and will make them from scratch, if there’s time. The sides are brought by our guests, so it’s best if they travel easily and heat up in the oven.

In years past, broiled grapefruit, crusted with caramelized sugar and topped with a maraschino cherry was the traditional starter. Colorful gelatin salads, green, red, or an elaborate three layered construction are a blast from the past that are still on the table. Tomato aspic is another family standby that you don’t see much these days.

Marsha recalls having Welsh Rarebit for Christmas Eve supper. Cousin Joyce, raised in Iowa, carried on her parents’ tradition of scalloped oysters, shipped on ice by rail all the way from the Atlantic coast. Until it closed, we always had the Christmas Eve buffet dinner at The Silvermine Tavern, the table getting bigger each year as the family grew.

On Christmas, we usually eat in the late afternoon or early evening, timing that fits in with a late morning brunch and getting the grandchildren to bed at a reasonable hour – it’s been a long and exciting day for them. Appetizers are minimal – we don’t want to spoil dinner appetites. The family favorites, garlic cheese roll and cheese olives hot from the oven, keep everyone satisfied.

Dessert is a big deal. We usually have at least two pies – mince with rum sauce and pumpkin with whipped cream – sometimes a cheesecake, and platters of fudge and assorted cookies.

Christmas is the season for a food splurge. It’s the busiest month in the caviar trade. Cheese shops are stocking the finest hand-crafted cheeses. Chris Palumbo at Fairfield Cheese told me that English Stilton, usually served with Port wine, is an enduring holiday best seller. The best Stilton is made from early fall milk and is perfectly ripe by December.

It’s also a chance to have some special wines: Champagne popped for sipping or with dinner; Burgundy or Bordeaux; Pinot Noir or Cabernet; or perhaps an old vine Zinfandel. Chardonnay, of course, can be remarkable from France, California, or even Connecticut. With dessert or later with the Stilton, cordials, brandies, and warming port are always a treat.

Setting the table begins right after brunch; spread the cloth, arrange the centerpiece, and light the candles. Each place is set with the heirloom sterling, crystal goblets, fine china, and cloth napkins. Polished serving pieces are laid out, ready for the food.

This year, Marsha’s dad passed away at 97, leaving an empty chair at the head of the table. His house, scene of many Christmas dinners, has been sold – the end of an era. His great grandchildren are crowding the table though, increasing our numbers every year, carrying on the time-honored traditions as we celebrate our family Christmas.

It’s time to get to work on all this good food. Maybe I’ll see you in the grocery store. Merry Christmas!