Dennis Bubbico at the Strigo roaster

If you think coffee is an enjoyable beverage with a complex flavor, seductive aroma, and fascinating origin stories, I’ve got some people you’ll want to know.

If, on the other hand, you feel that coffee is a dark and murky caffeine delivery system that needs to be adulterated with lots of cream, sugar, caramel and even pumpkin spice, you may want to skip this, and I’ll see you next week. 

Dennis Bubbico at Strigo Coffee in Norwalk is a coffee evangelist. His passion for great coffee is as exciting as the aroma of a well-brewed cup. From his small roastery he’s sending out eye-opening coffees that will change the way coffee fits into your life. 

Lucas Smith at the Ilse roaster

The philosophy is much the same at Ilse Coffee, a Westport-based craft roaster. Partners Lucas Smith and Rebecca Grossman are also believers in quality coffee that “tastes like something.”

For boutique coffee roasters like these, coffee is a sophisticated drink offering an exciting range of styles and flavors.  These passionate coffee lovers source single-origin beans from small growers around the world and roast them to bring out their individual character. The aroma and flavor descriptions of these coffees sound a lot like fine wine.  

In fact, the whole process can be compared to wine.  The place where beans are grown, the variety of bean, and the local method of handling and fermenting them produce unique flavors — terroir, if you will. The roaster, like the winemaker, then coaxes out the preferred flavors and aromas.  

Dennis and his partner Jennie Sandusky evolved from coffee lovers to home roasters and finally turned pro.  They work with suppliers who share their goal of “forming direct trade relationships with farmers to find the world’s best single-origin coffees.”

Strigo is currently offering small-production coffees from Brazil, Columbia, Congo, Ethiopia, Guatemala, Mexico, Sumatra and Uganda.

The ten to fifteen minute roasting process is where the craft happens. By controlling time, temperature and air flow in the three-stage process the roaster, like a winemaker, develops the unique flavor and character of each bean variety. 

Strigo at the 314 Beer Garden

Strigo’s Uganda coffee, a light roast, is made with beans from the Bukonzo Farmers Group in the Kasese District. Bubbico’s flavor notes include blackberry, dark chocolate and cane sugar.  The Sumatra, on the other hand, is a dark roast.  From the Aceh region, it’s flavor notes include dark chocolate, molasses and dried plum.  

The Uganda, light-bodied to be sure, but packed with floral and fruit aromas and flavors, was unlike any coffee I’d had.  It might become my new favorite. 

Strigo coffees range from $16 to $20 for a 12 oz bag of whole beans. You can sign up for flexible subscriptions or order by origin. Local delivery is free. Strigo coffee is sold at Harbor Harvest in Norwalk, The Pantry in Fairfield and Franny’s Farmacy in Westport and will be served at the soon-to-open So Fresh Doughnuts in Stamford.  You can stop by for a cup at the Strigo booth in the friendly 314 Beer Garden in Norwalk Thursday through Sunday.  

At Ilse, the coffees are labeled for the country of origin and grower. They “sell what they like,” each variety roasted for maximum flavor and aroma. Current selections come from Ethiopia, Mexico, Costa Rica and Honduras but the list changes with the seasons. Prices range from $20 to $34 for a 12 oz bag.

Ethiopia and Columbia are the favorite brews for both partners. Their tasting notes on Ethiopian Hamasho include “delicate florals of jasmine and a hint of fresh melon.”  It brewed up smooth, fresh and delicious with great coffee aroma in our Mr. Coffee.  I can’t say I got the jasmine, but maybe yes on the melon. I can say it was well-integrated and complex — inviting the rare (for me) second cup.

Ilse coffees are ingredient-driven, purchased with the welfare of the growers in mind. Each label states the price paid to the grower (in local currency), the FOB price on the dock and the cost to Ilse.  Pretty transparent. 

They are available at ilsecoffee.com by the bag or on a monthly subscription.   You can find them locally at Manna Toast in Westport,   Phinney’s in Newtown, Source Coffee House in Bridgeport, Gruel Britannia in Fairfield and The Norwalk Art Space Cafe.

Carefully-grown, expertly-chosen, professionally-roasted coffee may seem expensive, but compared with other luxuries, it’s an affordable indulgence.  And boy, does it start the day right! 

Frank Whitman can be reached at NotBreadAloneFW@gmail.com.