The pleasures of a leisurely lunch

By Frank Whitman

The well stocked bar

Lunch has often been billed as an insider’s way to enjoy a chef’s offerings without the more complex and costly challenges of the dinner menu.  That’s not strictly true these days, since most restaurants run the same menu and prices all day long. But still, lunch offers the pleasures of less crowded dining rooms, more relaxed staff and a chance for more personal attention. 

At Ryebird in Fairfield, Marsha and I were reminded of all these benefits at a leisurely lunch this fall.  The restaurant, in the heart of Fairfield, is casual, with a creative menu, a bar that emphasizes cocktails and a contemporary vibe.  

A contemporary vibe

Although we’re probably not the Saturday-night target demographic, our lunch was a treat to the tunes of classic sax jazz spun from vinyl in the industrial-chic space. A large outdoor patio (enclosed in the cold weather) was popular too.  Billed as, “A Local Joint,” I would say it was a little further up the scale than that.

The kitchen takes familiar ingredients and turns out original and flavorful presentations. Marsha added shrimp to her Harvest Grains Bowl – a hearty Fall mix of warm grains, pickled vegetables, sweet potatoes and roasted apple, dressed with a mushroom vinaigrette ($18 plain, $28 with the shrimp.)

As you might think, there’s a chicken theme at Ryebird. An eight piece fried chicken bucket for two comes with Caesar salad, macaroni salad, sauces and a sundae ($55). That was too much, but I liked the

Harvest Grain Bowl

suggestion of Champagne for two for $28 to go with it – but not for us at lunch. 

Instead, I opted for the Ryebird sandwich ($18), a crisp-fried boneless thigh on a brioche bun with slaw, pickles and mayo accompanied by a heap of crispy irresistible fries. The chef has a good hand with the fried bird.

Ryebird has one of those menus that make it hard to choose. Lots of tempting options vie for your attention.  American poutine, fried blue cheese olives and corn ribs with cotija, lime and cilantro all stand out as starters. 

Line-caught salmon, smoked pork chop with chili crisp zucchini, and their “famous” chicken pot pie (all $25) are intriguing mains.  

Ryebird Sandwich

In addition to the Ryebird sandwich, there is a gussied up version – The Hot House – with pickled jalapeño, the house special sauce and pepper dust.  A pulled chicken option on a pretzel bun and a mahi mahi on brioche with tarter round out the list. And, there is a lone burger – two patties smashed with cheese and the rye sauce. All sandwiches are $18.

The lone burger is notable to me. Most restaurants offer multiple versions – you’ve seen them – with a range of cheeses, mushrooms, hot peppers and more.  Points from me to Ryebird for offering an original menu and including a solitary burger for those who must. 

Ryebird is in the heart of Fairfield at the corner of the Unquowa Road and Rt-1 next to the SHU Community Theater.  We lucked out with a parking spot across the street, but downtown Fairfield is very walkable so park anywhere.  We’re looking for a chance to get back for dinner on the weekend, dig deeper into the menu, and try one of their swanky cocktails.

The well stocked bar