Hankering for one more lunch by the water, while summer seems to linger and before the leaves fall, we headed down to Rowayton. This mild, dry autumn with bright blue skies is a gift, even though the reservoirs are low.

The Restaurant at Rowayton Seafood (rowaytonseafood.com) is a stylish spot overlooking the docks and the Five Mile River, with a sophisticated menu and a resort ambiance. In fact, the entire village is much the same – old and new buildings with gray weathered shingles and white trim, boatyards and boutiques lining the streets.

The Restaurant was busy on a cloudless Friday. As the valets jockeyed the cars, we hoped there would be room for us. We did get one of the last tables, not with the early birds by the windows, but close enough to enjoy the warm, reflected sunlight. There’s a cozy bar on the left as you enter – great for an evening drink or dinner, but at lunch the view is what you want.

Owner Kevin Conroy has just celebrated The Restaurant’s 20th anniversary. It began as an expansion of the long-established fish market on the dock but now dominates the busy wharf. It’s not showing its age. The well-maintained dining rooms, bar, and exterior look like they were new this spring.

Sophisticated lunch choices cover both sides of the extensive menu: Appetizers, Soups, Raw Bar, Salads, Fried Seafood, Grilled Flatbreads, Sandwiches, Lobster, and Entrees, plus some enticing sides. It’s a lot of choice for a fairly small restaurant. The fish, of course, is the freshest possible – a benefit of having your own fish market a clam’s toss away.

A shared Clam Chowder got us going. I had talked to Chef Chris Diest about his chowder when he was gearing up for the ChowdaFest early in October. Chunky with diced potatoes, flecked with finely minced mirepoix, and loaded with clams, it had great clam flavor and just the right consistency – neither thick nor thin.

Calamari Salad dressed with sesame oil and sprinkled with black sesame seeds was generous and chock-a-block with fresh greens and julienned vegetables. Marsha asked for grilled, instead of fried calamari, and our accommodating waiter said, “No Problem!”

An Oyster Po’ Boy came on a tasty brioche bun with lettuce and tomato instead of the traditional baguette. Under the pile of crisply fried oysters lurked a smear of zingy chipotle aioli. “Salad, fries, or chips?” asked the waiter. Salad for me – to offset the richness of the oysters.

You should know that these choices weren’t taken lightly or made easily. Other tempting offerings included: Crab Croquettes, Lobster Spring Rolls, Smoked Salmon Flatbread, Blackened Swordfish Sandwich, Grilled Shrimp Club, and Lobster & Spinach Fettuccini. Look for some seasonal changes soon. The owners and chefs were tasting new menu candidates at a corner table as the lunch rush tapered off.

Desserts like cheesecake, pies, fruit crisp, crème brûlée, and molten chocolate cake were tempting. Maybe next time we’ll skip the chowder and split a dessert.

The Rowayton Arts Center at 145 Rowayton Ave. is an easy walk from The Restaurant. The buildings on the west side of the street all back up to the river. You get glimpses of the docks, boats, and the Darien shore between the buildings. A few lucky folks get to live along the river or have their offices there. Boutiques like Caren Forbes and galleries like Fine Marine Art are interspersed with food markets and marine services.

145 Rowayton Ave. was built as a firehouse in 1905. In 1926 the Rowayton Library replaced the fire engines. In 1966 the Arts Center moved in – a natural evolution for a New England coastal town, where land is scarce. A guild of local artists, the Center strives to “promote creativity in the arts through classes, gallery, outreach programs, and events.”

The gallery hosts a year-round program of juried exhibits, themed shows and events. Expressions, their annual fall juried show, ends on October 30. A Young Artists exhibit starts November 5. The always-popular Holiday Gift Show starts November 19 and runs till Christmas. For the full calendar, visit rowaytonarts.org.

Expressions, on display now, includes drawings and paintings in a wide range of styles, along with sculpture and photography, with prizes awarded in each category. The diverse artistic styles include something for almost everyone. A painting of wine glasses reminded us of lunch. A couple of portrait drawings caught my eye. There were dramatic seascapes, detailed still lifes, even one fascinating painting of an old railroad steam shovel.

At the back of the gallery, there’s a large window and a small deck overlooking the river. Perfect for contemplating art when the weather is fine.

Going further along Rowayton Ave. can help to work off a good lunch. North past the Arts Center is the Rowayton Market, a few more boutiques, another boat yard, and Pinkney Park. The spacious park overlooking the river hosts Shakespeare on the Sound every summer and a Friday farmer’s market in season.

Cross the street and reverse direction for another perspective on the town. This side’s a little more commercial (banks, hardware stores, and such), but equally charming.

One more lunch by the water while the weather’s still nice (Check that box!) and a dose of diverse art with a lovely stroll. My ambition extends no further.