A journey of discovery in Connecticut’s Quiet Corner

By Frank Whitman

Summer is in my rear view mirror.  I must have been going way over the speed limit, because it went by pretty fast.  But Fall, another popular season, is right there in front of me.

Actually I was thinking about the change of seasons back in August on a visit to Connecticut’s Quiet Corner. The Corner, in our northeast where CT meets MA and RI, is well-named. The space between the area’s small towns is divided by rivers and filled with rolling hills and lush farms.  Handsome homes and stately mansions testify to the once prosperous but now-derelict mills.  The antithesis to the bustle of Fairfield County, I could easily imagine how beautiful it would be dressed in fall colors.

Our base was the William Mason House in Thompson, where Massachusetts and Rhode Island are the town lines.  Mason owned the largest mill in town and built a spectacular gothic Victorian home from its success.  The house has had its ups and downs over the decades, but has recently been lavished with a four-year restoration that includes the house, grounds, outbuildings and gardens.  It’s marketed as a wedding venue, complete with spa facilities, a ceremony pavilion and space in a very fancy tent for dancing and dinner. 

Between weddings, the House makes a great B and B stop for exploring the region. The interior has been restored to “better than new” condition with up-to-the-minute facilities and rich furnishings.   “Wow!” is the only possible reaction when you step in. 

Watermelon Salad

The restaurant Anya, a sister property to the WMH, is only a few minutes away.  Service in the elegant space, done in shades of beige and gray, was professional and well-organized under the supervision of service director Kara Dexter.  A pressed watermelon salad ($14) was typical of the kitchen’s elaborate, colorful and tasty presentations.  The melon was garnished with a tangle of arugula, feta mousse, pickled onion, mint and at least three sauces – complicated and delicious.  A Little Gem caesar ($13) was similarly gussied up with a brioche crouton, parmesan tuile, sun-dried tomato and Grana Padano.

We went on to enjoy Taglietelli with mushrooms ($30), cracker-crusted New England Scrod ($32) and a shared orange blossom crème brûlée ($14).

The Mason House offers a Chef-prepared three-course breakfast ($50 for two) as an option – fresh fruit parfait, scone with lemon curd, and quiche with house smoked bacon – all beautifully presented. Served on their porch overlooking the garden, it was a delightful start to the day. 

Driving is the way to get to know the QC.  We headed out with the vague destination of Woodstock.  The drive took us along the Quinebaug River to Putnam, a charming town with a beautiful riverside park and thriving downtown. Following signs, we took the uphill road through the woods to Woodstock.  

Roseland Cottage, across the green from The Woodstock Academy, is another Victorian mansion, this one in original condition. Occupied by three generations of the Bowen family from 1846 until 1968, it has the original furnishings including an 1846 bowling alley (the oldest in the country) once played by President U. S. Grant. The fascinating guided tour covers the history and lifestyle of the family.  

Driving further west took us down into a farm-dotted valley. I couldn’t resist a stop at the Woodstock Creamery at Valleystock Farm where they sell their own farm-fresh milk, yogurt and meat.  A recommendation for lunch at local favorite, The Woodstock Trading Post, turned out to be a satisfying surprise. 

On our second morning a search for a local breakfast eatery took us to The Painted Baker Café in Putnam, a charming mashup of The Jetsons meets muscle cars. The locally popular luncheonette has a full breakfast menu, house-made pastry and creative specials. The “Putnam Main Street Muscle Car Menu” is not to be missed.

We barely scratched the surface of the Quiet Corner. In the heart of The Last Green Valley, a rural corridor that spans Connecticut and Massachusetts, there are wineries, distilleries, farm stands, country fairs, historic sites and much more. The pleasure is in driving around on a journey of discovery. And it’s just a stone’s throw from home. 

The Painted Baker Cafe