Bastille Day, celebrated this past Tuesday, is the French equivalent of our Fourth of July. The occasion commemorates the beginning of the French Revolution – against an oppressive and decadent monarchy – with the storming of the Bastille fortress on July 14, 1789. The national holiday is famous for a splendid military parade down the Champs-Élysées in Paris on July 14 and, of course, lots of food and wine.

France was an active supporter of the American Revolution. The Marquis de Lafayette was an especially close adviser and confidant of General Washington and a critical ally in winning American independence from the British. A current exhibit at the New York Historical Society (Central Park West at 77th St.) examines this critical figure in our history through letters, artifacts, and his journey from France on the ship Hermione. (A newly built reproduction of the ship is now visiting the New England Coast). If you go, plan for lunch at the delightful Caffé Storico in the museum.

For me, there’s no better way to celebrate Bastille Day and the close ties between the American and French Revolutions than at a good French restaurant. Food, wine and celebration are, after all, at the heart of French culture. A few of the French restaurants in our area created special Bastille Day events.

Bernard’s in Ridgefield put on a wine tasting and Country French Buffet on this past Sunday evening, a few days ahead of the official date, complete with a band, dancing and a tasting of French wines. The extensive buffet menu was loaded with French classics including Bernard’s Famous Cassoulet. It’s Bernard and Sarah’s favorite event of the year.

At Luc’s Cafe, also in Ridgefield and a favorite among the French speakers I know, there is an annual Bastille Day celebration with “Pétanque and festivities” (Pétanque is a game derived from Boules that originated in Provence and has spread around the globe with the French-speaking culture). Boulevard 18 in New Canaan celebrated with a complimentary glass of Lillet Blanc or Pernod Pastis – favorite French aperitifs.

Bistro V in Greenwich organized a fixed price four course dinner for Tuesday loaded with updated menu classics like vichyssoise, paté, ratatouille, trout, sausage, and floating island.

Although we didn’t make it out for a Bastille celebration this year, a dinner at Bistro V a few weeks ago filled the bill in advance.

Bistro B owner Marc Penvenne presents the wine

Bistro B owner Marc Penvenne presents the wine

Bistro V, previously known as Versailles, was a French dining mainstay on Greenwich Avenue for years. New owners, Marc and Evelyn Penvenne have updated the space, modernized the menu, and re-christened this old friend as Bistro V. The Penvennes are the long-time owners of the ever popular Méli Mélo Crêperie diagonally across the street from Bistro V. Here they ply enthusiastic fans with authentic crêpes, along with great sandwiches, soups and juices – French casual fare at its best.

When the chance came along to take over the legendary Versailles, they couldn’t pass it up. The famous pastry kitchen is still going, with light and buttery croissants, fruit tarts, classic cakes, napoleons and petit fours – all temptingly displayed just inside the door. In fact, The Bistro is open for breakfast and has a late afternoon menu in addition to lunch and dinner to take advantage of their in-house bakery.

There is a lot of classically trained French firepower manning the stoves at Bistro V. Chef Erik Erlichson has worked in French kitchens around the world and was the creative force behind the acclaimed La Colline Verte in Fairfield. At his right hand is Chef Cedric Lamouille, formerly Sous Chef at the award-winning Restaurant Jean-Louis in Greenwich. These guys can cook!

Poached Lobster

Poached Lobster

On our visit, we ordered mostly from menu specials. A watermelon salad was beautifully presented with pickled rind, baby arugula and a lemon vinaigrette surrounding a bright slice of melon. Cold poached lobster, perfectly cooked, came with a delicate cilantro emulsion. I’m not always a fan of cilantro, but this was just right. Grilled sea bass was also cooked to perfection (difficult on a hot grill). Along the way, we had some of the best frites in memory – I’m told frying in duck fat is the secret. The herb-crusted duck breast cooked medium rare was tender (not easy to do) and tastily set off with a spicy ginger vinaigrette. We finished with chilled fruit soup, an unusual, but cool and refreshing, dessert.

Fantastic Frites

Fantastic Frites

The dinner menu has lots of things you’d expect on a bistro menu, but not always the way you’d expect to see them: Poached salmon with parsnip purée and pomegranate vinaigrette; Beef Tartar, using grass fed beef and with those amazing fries; and rhubarb alongside pan-roasted pork loin. More traditional, but equally enticing are: cassoulet, beef bourguignon, steak frites, and sole Meunière.

General Lafayette visited Norwalk in 1824 on his way to Boston. A commemorative plate with his name on it was made in local redware by the Smith pottery of Norwalk. Thinking of our shared revolutionary history makes me want to have a good French dinner, enjoy a bottle of Beaujolais, and kiss someone on both cheeks.

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