A Favorite Hidden-gem Wine Region 

By Frank Whitman

There’s more to France than just Paris, Provence and the Riviera, and there’s more to French wine than just Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. 

Alsace, near the origins of the Rhine on the border between France and Germany, is one of the most fascinating and often overlooked regions.  Charming cities and hillside villages come with unique and flavorful wines – mostly white. 

The wines are made from German-sounding varieties and, unlike the rest of Europe, are labeled with the name of the grape, not the place of origin.  They come in tall, slender, tapered bottles – either brown or green.  Fruit-forward Riesling is the best known, but floral Gewürztraminer, bright Pinot Blanc and rich Sylvanier have starring roles too. Ninety percent of the annual crop is white. The wines can be 100% of the labeled variety or a blend under a house name.

DB Wine tasting

Without any oak-barrel influence, the aromatic wines are dry, floral, fruity, and sometimes spicy. They’re a perfect match for the rich cuisine of Alsace, great with charcuterie, and complimentary with the local Muenster cheese. 

You won’t find them in the bargain bin or on the $10.00 table but priced at $20 and up, they represent tremendous value compared to other more widely-known regions. 

All this sets Alsatian wine apart from the rest of France. The wines are popular across Europe – the U.S. is fifth in line for exports, behind Belgium, Netherlands, Germany and Denmark – where their distinctive, sophisticated character and user-friendly pricing is appreciated.

Alsace wine tasting lineup

Most Alsatian wines come from large family firms who have their own vineyards but also buy from local vintners for blending and bottling.  Names like Hugel, Trimbach, Zind-Humbrecht and Willm have been around for centuries. There are small producers, grand cru vineyards, sparkling wine and even a little (delicious) pinot noir. But to understand the magic of Alsace, get some of the entry level wines of different varieties from the big houses. They’re a perfect introduction to the region.

A recent tasting at DB Fine Wines in New Canaan was a showcase for Alsace.  The major grape varieties were well-represented as well as a few blends, all squeezed into a price range of (slightly under) $20 to $40.  No precious $100 bottles here, but you couldn’t tell from the wines. 

Maison Willm, Alsatian wine producers since 1896, supplied some of the most popular wines at the tasting. Their Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr Riesling ($28) was the favorite in the room (I snagged two).  I also brought home some of the Jean Rosen Pinot Blanc, elegant and bright, with an everyday price of $18.  Ripe and intense Willm Pinot Gris Réserve ($20) was also in my order along with a splurge for Domaine Marcel Deiss Alsace Blanc “Complantation.” It’s an intriguing “field blend” of the traditional Alsatian grapes, well worth the $39 price for a few special occasion bottles. 

Over the years, I’ve never been disappointed in any wine from the Trimbach label.  In business since 1626 the firm is now led by the 12th generation of Trimbachs and the 13th generation is working its way up the ranks. A bottle of their entry level yellow-label Riesling or Pinot blanc is a great place to start. For a little more adventure try their Gewürztraminer. 

Bound by Strasburg to the north, Mulhaus to the south with Colmar in the middle, Alsace is a picturesque valley with the vineyard-covered Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine River to the east. Germany is just across the river at present, but the region has been fought over and ruled by both France and Germany for centuries. The cities are known for their  authentic medieval charm and rich German-inflected cuisine while the villages are known for their picturesque hillside vineyards and memorable wines.  I intend to visit sometime soon, but in the meantime I’m going to enjoy some armchair and dinner table travel with my stash of Alsatian wines.