The kind of restaurant that draws you back

By Frank Whitman

Adrian Hurtado

When a restaurant owner makes a recommendation for a restaurant other than his own, pay attention!  It’s a rare moment.  That’s how we found the Taco Guy in Norwalk.  

The narrow space is stylish and cozy with a bar to the right, tables looking out to a small outdoor dining space, Wall Street and the District Music Hall theater beyond. More seating lines the wall to the left under the subtle south-of-the-border touches.  A domed, soon-to-be-fired-up pizza oven guards the pass to the kitchen. The Taco Guy is open for dinner seven days a week. 

With a quick look at the menu, it’s clear that this is no ordinary taco joint – the tacos radiate pizzazz. Chef/owner Adrian Hurtado has a creative approach with ingredients, and his deft touch in the kitchen

Pork Belly

elivers richly layered flavors.  The pork belly taco, for instance, seems to be built on a thick slice of bacon, but with the first  bite, you know something exceptional is going on. “We confit the pork belly,” Hurtado told me. A slow hours-long low-temperature bath in pork fat renders a tender slice with a meaty flavor. Dressed with red onions, macha (chili oil), guac, and cilantro, it’s a very tasty taco. 

Hurtado has worked around some of the better kitchens in Fairfield County, including an early stint in his current location back when it was the Bar Sugo. A successful event-oriented food truck of the same name is how he got his foot in the door of ownership.  He’s also an accomplished mixologist. 

A shared Queso Fundido ($16) was a filling starter.  Bubbling spicy pork topped with Oaxacan cheese

Esquites

and a swirl of avocado, it came with warm, soft, corn tortillas. We wouldn’t let our charming waiter clear our other starter, Esquites ($14), until the last bit had been scooped up in a crisp taco.  The Mexican street corn with jack cheese and spicy mayo was too good. Appetizers are generously sized, great for sharing. 

The Taco Guy has a well-stocked bar.  Mezcales and tequilas are the specialty.  There’s a deep bench in both categories to savor as a shot or mix in a cocktail. My mezcal margarita was delicious. On the menu, there’s a page of signature cocktails, specialty margaritas and Mexican beers.  Hurtado is a nominee for a Connecticut Restaurant Association Crazie Award as Bartender of the Year.  

Carnitas

The melt-in-your-mouth tender carnitas taco was topped with slices of pickled onion.  The crisp batter-fried fish taco was topped with crunchy red cabbage, pico de gallo and morita (chili) mayonnaise. The tacos, each with their own personality, were beautifully presented. 

Tacos are $13 a pair. Botanas (appetizers) range from $13 to $16.  Entrees, including a Pork Torta, Garden Tlayuda, Pork al Pastor Tayluda and Shrimp Diabla Sope range from $18 to $23.  We’ll try them next time if we don’t fill up on tacos.

Full as we were, a shared order of Churros was irresistible. Stacked like fireplace logs, the hot, crisp, filled churros were dusted with cinnamon and came with a generous dollop of the traditional sauce. I wonder if the kitchen intentionally plated nine so each of us could enjoy three. 

Hurtado has mastered the trick of taking the ordinary and making it extra-ordinary.  With creative food, delicious drinks, and modest prices, The Taco Guy is the kind of restaurant that draws you back time and again.