Marine art on the dining room walls

My wife was trying to get my attention, but my head was swiveling around, taking in the ship paintings, nautical artifacts and Americana lining the walls and ceiling. Prints of river steamers, ship portraits by Antonio Jacobsen, ship models, quarter-boards, steamer timetables and memorial quilts – all the real thing – were too distracting. “What do you want for lunch?” she wanted to know.

We were at the historic Griswold Inn (www.griswoldinn.com), one of the oldest continuously operating Inns in America in the charming seaport town of Essex. Our lunch destination for the day, it’s just an hour and a quarter up the coast.

Settled in 1648 and incorporated in 1852, the town was an important maritime center for the West Indies trade, shipbuilding, and as a port for coastal packets and world-traveling clipper ships. The Oliver Cromwell, Connecticut’s first colonial era warship, was built here in one of the town’s many shipyards. During the war of 1812 the British raided Essex harbor and burned 28 ships, but spared the town.

Nowadays, the waterfront is thick with marinas filled with boats – everything from gold platers and sleek sloops to utilitarian skiffs. Essex boatyards are famous up and down the east coast for their marine services and convenient location.

The Connecticut River Museum with the Schooner Mary E

The Connecticut River Museum occupies a prime spot on the former Hartford steamboat dock, at the foot of Main street, just a short leg stretch from lunch at The Griswold The Museum houses permanent exhibits on the history of the river and the people who lived and worked there, stories told with great artifacts and clear explanations. On the third floor a space for changing exhibits is the home of the annual holiday season model train exhibit – entertaining for kids of all ages. Currently there is an engaging show of rare baby bird photographs called Water Babies by William Burt. Out on the dock the historic schooner Mary E is available for river cruises in the warm weather.

The Connecticut River Mural flows up the staircase

A mural map of the Connecticut River, from Long Island Sound to its headwaters in the upper reaches of Vermont, climbs up three floors on the wall of the museum stairwell. Notable sites along the river are shown in detail while stunning aerial photos of the same places line the opposite wall. Climbing up the stairs and backtracking to see more, we were enchanted by this flowing depiction of the river’s journey through New England.

The Griswold, called the Gris by all who love it, welcomed its first guests in 1776. It’s a living example of New England Americana. With a nautical art-filled dining room, famous Tap Room, overnight accommodations, the recently renovated wine bar, and the eclectic Griswold Inn Store across the street, there is something there for everyone. The extensive collection of marine art and artifacts is famous for the number and quality of Jacobsen ship portraits and local marine history. From time to time the Inn owners offer a guided tour of the art. I want to sign up!

Clam Chowder and fresh baked rolls

Our lunch started with a basket of fresh-baked rolls and Clam Chowder for me, chunky with diced potatoes, robust with clam flavor and not too thick. Marsha had the boss’s favorite soup – a seasonal house-made cream of tomato. The lunch menu includes a half dozen sandwiches, a clutch of salads, and a few entrees along with signature Fish n’ Chips featuring potato-crusted fried cod. My satisfying Rotisserie Chicken Salad Sandwich with peaches, almonds, and jalapenos was on a whole grain baguette and came with irresistible hand-made potato chips. Marsha’s soup and sandwich combo included country white bread, packed with ham, salami and provolone and a tangy green salad. The dessert menu touts the Inn’s signature Sticky Toffee Pudding.

On Sunday, the Hunt Breakfast buffet brunch (said to have originated in 1814) is an always-popular feature of the Connecticut dining scene. The Freight Train Five dixieland band adds to the festive atmosphere starting at noon. The Gris is open for lunch and dinner seven days and is an ideal destination for holiday dining.

The Wine Bar

The Wine Bar, opened ten years ago (pretty recent in the life of the Gris), offers carefully selected wines by the glass, by the bottle, or organized into flights, along with a menu of small plates, cheese and desserts.

The cozy Tap Room, voted “Best Bar” in Connecticut Magazine, with its old fashioned bar and tables gathered around a pot belly stove and a year-round Christmas tree, has entertainment 7 nights a week. Sea shanties, swinging tunes, classic rock, sing-along and dixieland jazz are all found across the weekly entertainment calendar.

After lunch it’s delightful to stroll up Main Street toward the stores gathered around Essex Square. Meticulously restored houses from the 18th and 19th century line the street. The walking tour of Essex map tells you all about the buildings along with some history of the town and its early citizens.

Marley’s at the Essex Island Marina

If the Gris is sold out, there are other tempting options for lunch in town. Try the Black Seal on Main St, a long time Essex favorite. For views of the water there is Marley’s Cafe across the ferry at the Essex Island Marina or Abby’s restaurant at Brewers Dauntless Shipyard.

Next time, I think we’ll stay overnight at the Gris and explore the region, go for a sail on the Mary E, and take the tour of the art at the Inn. Great dining, historic waterfront, picturesque town, and fascinating attractions: Essex has it all!