Dinner at the beach can’t be beat

By Frank Whitman

Luca’s Beach Kitchen

There’s no better place to eat by the water than at Norwalk’s Calf Pasture Beach.  Take some kids, and they’ll want to pump away on the tall swings and explore the water’s edge, picking up shells and jumping in the wavelets. Older offspring might want to stroll the shore walk or journey out on the pier, pretending that their grownups aren’t nearby. The grownups, of a certain age, might just want to take a shore-side bench, enjoy the breeze, and see if they can name all the Norwalk Islands.

But everyone will line up for a beachy meal. 

The concession there has had its ups and downs over the years. After a fallow period, Stew Leonard stepped in, serving up burgers and dogs like he enjoyed as a

Lobster Roll

teen-age lifeguard. Clyde Ripka took it over and fed the throngs who clamored for his extensive menu. Now a partnership of local restaurant operators has taken up the challenge under the name Luca’s Beach Kitchen (open 7 days from 11 to 9).  

The well-edited menu covers the shoreside essentials, allowing the kitchen to focus on quality and presentation.  Beach classics include a customizable burger, two generously-sized flavorful dogs (one all beef), two grilled cheese options and a chicken sandwich, all ranging in price from $5 to $11.  

Yummy hot dog

Fried seafood is at the core of a beachy menu.  Oysters, tender belly-clams, and shrimp all emerge from the fryer blazing hot and wrapped in crunchy breading

($13 to $19). These days, a menu has to offer a lobster roll. The buttery poached-lobster here is tender and moist and the perfectly toasted, split-top bun is packed with meat. The market price on our visit was $35.

There are, of course, tempting sides including golden crinkle-cut fries, hand cut chips and street corn.  Salads are available if you must.  Chase it down with icy cold soft drinks or wine, beer, cocktails and frozen drinks.

All this comes out of two attractive catering trailers parked in an L arrangement. The Luca’s team didn’t have time to renovate the original stand – that’s on track for next year. In the meantime, the temporary setup includes a graveled patio with cafe seating and picnic tables under a tent.  Orders are placed with the friendly staff at the open counter of the first trailer.  Food is picked up at the second, window-less unit, where the culinary magic happens out of sight. 

No flimsy paper plates here.  The food comes in sturdy cardboard containers with tight-fitting clear lids, ready for carry-out or no-spill eating. 

After a delicious meal on a beautiful evening, thunderheads were building in the distance.  We had to bribe the grandkids away from a detailed exploration of the low-tide shore edge with the promise of ice cream. 

Luca’s does have a few desserts: Churro bites and Dole Whip.  But our tradition is cones and cups at Sweet Ashley’s on the way home. Two blue raspberry sherbet,

Thunderhead building

one grapenut and a Tasmanian Devil for me.  In the TD, raspberry swirl cuts through vanilla ice cream that is studded with chocolate chips. I can’t resist. The blue raspberry stains the tongue to the delight of the younger set. 

We’ll see what Luca’s does next year when they’re in the renovated building. I kind of hope they’ll keep their “temporary” setup. It’s simple, easy and can’t be beat.

Happy ice cream eaters