Some carefully chosen bottles for Thanksgiving

By Frank Whitman

If you’ve been dreaming about food lately, it’s probably because Thanksgiving is just around the corner. The beloved turkey, sides and desserts all take center stage during November. The food media colorfully proclaim menus – traditional or innovative – to make this year the most memorable ever (again), and social media is awash in tempting preparations. 

The Thanksgiving menu is a cliff on the mountainside of family lore. Standing tall and imposing, it can be a monument, carved in stone unchanging through generations or a challenging opportunity to climb new paths of flavor and style.  

Thanksgiving traditions may be either set in stone or open to change; either way, I’m not going to interfere. 

I’d rather talk about what to drink. 

Thanksgiving wines at DB Fine Wines

Wine is the obvious choice, but the diversity of Thanksgiving flavors on the table makes it hard to find one wine that compliments it all.  Hard cider is another option that reaches back into our American history for what might have been served centuries ago. 

Whatever your preference, I have a few guiding principles that apply to any of these options. Go for low alcohol and enjoy an extra glass.  This is not the occasion for 15.5% Zinfandel.  Bright fresh acidity will help to tame the rich Thanksgiving food. A lean, no-oak, slightly tart Chardonnay will please more than a rich, creamy, oaky flavor bomb.  Fresh, fruit-driven wines like Riesling or Beaujolais will enhance the menu, not compete with it.  If the crowd is big enough, offer several options. 

Sparkling wine is the surprise that fits all the above.  A fresh fruity Prosecco, crisp dry Cava, or Crémant de Loire are all user-friendly, festive and won’t break the bank.  For a splurge, get some genuine Champagne, either a famous brand or a more exclusive grower bottling.  When the guests hear the trademark pop of the cork, they’ll know something special is on the way. 

If you only haveing one wine, I’d go with white. A dry riesling is always good. A Moselle or Rhine wine from Germany, Chateau Ste Michelle from Washington, or harder to find examples from the Finger Lakes in New York are all good options. White wine blends are good too. Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier, crisp, bright and loaded with tropical fruit flavor is a modestly priced wine that has been a feature at our table for the last few years. 

If there is enough demand for two wines, the second should be red. Beaujolais is my go-to.  A Beaujolais Villages from a well-known shipper like Drouhin, Jadot or Duboeuf is a good bet, or you can aim higher with a Cru wine from one of the villages like Morgon or Fleurie. If you lean toward Italy, Barbara or Valpolicella will fill the bill. A light Oregon Pinot Noir will work too, but watch the alcohol!

Hard cider is a little more difficult to find, but the good ones are wine-like.  With refreshing fruit, bright acidity, a light sparkle, low alcohol and a complex flavor, it’s a winner for Thanksgiving.  Some are named after the apple used: Honeoye, Baldwin or Pippin, for example; others are blends. Look for 750ml bottles (same size as wine) rather than cans.  Cider is available at better wine stores, but you can also order direct. The Finger Lakes Cider House has a good selection and ships to Connecticut.

If you’re in the demographic where there is a kids table, Martinelli’s sparkling cider is always a hit. Sweet and fizzy with good apple flavor and no alcohol, it’s a treat for the underage. 

I like the taste adventure of trying a wine from a small producer or family winery. They can be found at a wine store where the offerings are carefully chosen and tasted by the staff. 

At a pre-Thanksgiving tasting at DB fine wines in New Canaan, eight wines selected from their curated inventory were recommended for Turkey Day dinner compatibility.  

Jim Winston (who presented the wines) and I are on the same page. One of his picks is our “house wine,” Chateau Ducasse, Bordeaux Blanc, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, enriched and rounded by Semillon.  Jim guided us through eight food-friendly wines from around the world  I was particularly taken with a Cru Beaujolais from Morgon, a flavorful and juicy Italian Valpolicella, a robust Cairanne (mostly Syrah) from the Southern Rhone and a delicate Alsatian Riesling.  

You don’t  have to obsess about the Thanksgiving wine.  After all, the people and food are the centerpieces of the day.  However, some carefully chosen bottles will only make it better.