It’s Ice Cream Season

By Frank Whitman

I can’t remember the last time it happened, but this past Monday I had ice cream twice in the same day. We’re hanging out in the Catskill Mountains with our daughter and grandchildren. There’s no such thing as too much ice cream for the kids, but for me it’s a rare treat. 

At my age and stage, enjoying kid-food becomes a special occasion.  (Not just ice cream but burgers and fries too.) Metabolism just isn’t what it used to be.  My consumption of calories and fat has to be meted out. 

But it was the first day of camp for the two youngest and the long-standing tradition is for a cone or cup to celebrate. Later, after dinner, a birthday was celebrated with Ellyn’s Rotten-Fruit Cake, this time dotted with seasonal bing cherries and served with a scoop of French vanilla – a match made in heaven. 

Ice cream has always been a treat, but in recent years it (like so many things) has moved upscale.  Richer ingredients and exotic flavors compete for attention in a crowded marketplace. The industry has moved beyond vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry to a universe of unusual (sometimes bizarre) flavors and mixed fillings.

I recall that Haagen Dazs was the first to introduce premium high-fat ice cream, creating a new upscale market.  Ben and Jerry’s set us on the path of creative multi-ingredient flavors (Cherry Garcia anyone?) broadening the premium market even more. Those two brands are still popular, but they’ve become national brands owned by big companies. 

Del’s Flavors at Mama’s Boy

The mojo in the ice cream business these days seems to be from small, regional producers who churn super premium products with strong local followings. Jane’s, local in the Hudson Valley, Jeni’s in Ohio and Van Leeuwen, from hip and trendy Brooklyn all have loyal followings eager to spread the word. 

Our after-camp spot is the Stewart’s gas station and convenience store on Rt. 23A in Haines Falls. The picnic table overlooking the pumps seems a little down market, but the chain has a reputation for award-winning, locally-sourced dairy products, especially their ice cream. The Dake brothers, Stewart’s founders, began making ice cream in the Saratoga area in 1921. I’ve secured a half gallon of vanilla and chocolate in the freezer at home “for the kids” and made up batches of hot fudge and caramel sauces. As a grandparent, you can never be too ready!  

Forty Milkshakes at Mama’s Boy

Stewarts fancy flavors include Adirondack Bear Paw, Blueberry Pie, and Campfire S’Mores along with limited edition offerings including Peanut butter Caramel Craze, Mango Dragon Fruit sherbet, and Boston Cream. 

I’m for more old-school flavors. A good coffee ice cream is a thing to admire. Cone-E Island in Catskill has my favorite. The many combinations of peanut butter and chocolate always appeal.  And a black raspberry takes me back to my youth.

Another stop on our summer ice cream trail is Mama’s Boy Burgers in Tannersville. They scoop ice cream from Del’s Farmhouse Creamery, made in small batches from Del’s 300 acre farm just 17 miles away.  Their speciality is an impressive roster of 40 milkshake flavors. 

Moira Logan at Mama’s Boy

The opposite of Stewarts, Mama’s Boy, is a one-off. Founded by New York City entrepreneur Michael Koegel, the business occupies a corner that has been serving ice cream for as long as anyone can remember. He kicked it up with local meat, produce and ice cream. A calorie-rich burger and ice cream is a must, metabolism be damned.  It’s summer with the kids, after all. 

Once a summer I satisfy a craving for a vanilla soft-serve chocolate dip cone.  I love the crunch of the chocolate mixed with the chill of the soft vanilla all in a crisp cone. I forget that it’s often a drippy mess, eaten in haste before the chocolate slips off and the cone gets soggy. Once a year is enough. After that, give me a scoop-in-a-cup to be eaten with a civilized (if plastic) spoon.

Van Leeuwen French Vanilla Bean was a popular choice in our 2023 ice cream taste off. The quality and original flavors of the family-owned company has driven expansion across the country with outlets in fourteen states.  There are four scoop shops in our area: Darien, Greenwich, New Canaan and Westport. 

I don’t think I’ll see twice in one day anytime soon, but ice cream is a part of summer that I can resist.  

I’m told that Sunday, July 20 is National Ice Cream Day, an important national occasion enshrined by President Ronald Reagan in 1984.  I can’t wait to celebrate.