A smashing burger on the grill

By Frank Whitman

Smashburger?  What’s that?  I’d heard of them, of course, but I’d never been in the same room with one. Our friends Joelle and Rick ordered smashes at lunch last November, and BOY they were excited. “Best burger I’ve ever had,” they both agreed. A burger, particularly a messy smashburger, is not something easily shared, so I had to take their word for it. 

But I’ve been dreaming about it ever since.

On an impulse I picked up a cast iron griddle at a local home center. The weighty 12 by 18 inch slab sits on top of my grill grates, covering about three quarters of the cooking area. There’s just enough room left to cook some zucchini or hotdogs.  I gave the griddle a test drive, searing salmon fillets with encouraging no-stick success. 

The essence of a smash burger is the flavorful crust that develops on the meat by pressing or smashing a ball of ground beef onto a hot surface.  That’s what sets it apart from traditional burgers. 

Of course, I turned to the internet for advice on the most effective technique and was roundly confused. There are those who recommend a cast iron surface, while others are OK with stainless steel. Some call for moderate heat, and some say crank it up. Recommendations for lubrication are: a dry surface that relies on the fat in the meat to prevent sticking; a light coating of oil; even a knob butter, which seems likely to burn.  Lots of advice, but no consensus. 

To do the pressing, a small sauce pot or a heavy skillet or even a stiff spatula can squish the meat.  The best approach is to press straight down, not from the side.  There are purpose-made pressers for smashing burgers, which are pretty handy. For $20 I got a Cuisinart model with a wood handle and stainless steel surface that worked great and was easy to clean. (It’s also handy for pressing shortbread or a crumb crust into a pan.) Almost everyone suggested a square of parchment paper between the meat and the smasher to prevent sticking. It wasn’t really necessary with the Cuisinart’s slick surface. 

The goal is to get a dark, flavorful crust on the patty, so I went with the crank it up folks. With the griddle on the grates I set it to high. When the (not always reliable) thermometer in the lid got close to 500, the grill seemed hot enough. I swiped on a thin coat of oil with a paper towel and was ready to cook.

Smash burgers usually have two thin beef patties instead of one thick one, so they cook quickly and have more surface for flavorful browning.  I rolled the 80/20 ground beef into loose balls, about the size of meatballs, and chilled them before cooking. Aiming for a 5 to 6 oz burger, each ball was 3 oz or slightly less. 

At last, here comes the sizzle!

Hot grill and cold meat, smasher at the ready, it was time for action.  Meat on the grill, press evenly with the smasher to about ¼ or ⅜ inch thickness and sprinkle with salt – this all goes very quickly, so it’s important to be well prepped.  Six patties (enough for three burgers) just fit on my griddle. When I got them all on and pressed, it was almost time to flip.  You can see the crust build in the sizzle.  Don’t worry if there are a few holes or a lacey, ragged edge. They add to the crispy texture. 

I would not recommend, as many on the internet did, cooking smash burgers inside. The high-heat cooking is messy with a lot of spatter and spill. For me, the outdoor grill is the only way to go.

The advice on flipping is unanimous.  A firm sharp tool is needed to lift the patty without losing the crust. A stiff, three-inch painters scraper with a beveled edge was perfect. (Yes, I got a new one with no paint on it.)  It’s not possible to get a patty with a pink center – they’re too thin – but the final product is still juicy and tender. 

After the flip, a slice of American cheese goes on one patty of each pair. Stack the two with the cheese in between and put them on a toasted bun. 

Garnish and enjoy!

I made a simple sauce: equal parts of mayo and catsup plus diced pickle (sweet or dill), and a good squirt of spicy mustard. Topping with sautéed or raw onions or a slice of pickle is also popular. 

I’m sorry not to be able to include a photo of the final product. We were all so hungry after all this prep and cooking that the burgers were devoured. I call that a win.